Cocktail Matchmake 鸡尾酒搭配艺术

Cocktail's Bond with Food 鸡尾酒与美食：息息相关

Cocktail pairing menus are getting increasingly popular and are set to surpass wine pairing menus anytime soon. Katherine Oh experienced the gin-infused cocktail pairing menu of Bombay Sapphire gin and KU DÉ TA Singapore and speaks with assistant bar manager Jeffrey Koh.

鸡尾酒与菜单的搭配越来越受欢迎，很快的势必超越葡萄酒与菜单的搭配。本刊记者 Katherine Oh 体验了新加坡 KU DÉ TA 餐厅注入孟买蓝宝石琴酒的鸡尾酒菜单配搭，并与其助理酒吧经理 Jeffrey Koh 先生对话。

 “Three measures of Gordon's, one of vodka, half a measure of Kina Lillet. Shake it well until it's ice cold, then add a large thin slice of lemon peel. Got it?” wrote Ian Fleming, author of fictional secret agent character James Bond, in the 1953 novel Casino Royale. Bond fans should be able to immediately identify the composition as Vesper Martini, a dry strong cocktail invented in fiction but adopted in reality in many bars across the globe.

三份戈登，一份伏尔加，半份 Kina Lillet 开胃酒，摇匀至冰冷，然后加入一大片的柠檬片。明白了吗？虚构特务占士邦一角的作者 Ian Fleming 在他1953年的小说《皇家赌场》中是这么写的。占士邦的粉丝们应该可以立即鉴定此混合体为 Vesper 马丁尼 ~ 一种在小说中虚构的干燥、强烈、而在现实生活中已被全球许多酒吧采用的鸡尾酒。

Cocktails are an exciting fun party drink and pre-meal apperitif; but no one really thought of different cocktails for different dishes, like wines do, as a good idea until recently. In fact, doing cocktail pairings with food is less complicated than working with wine in my opinion. As the taste and aroma profile of the wine is fixed, the tricky part is to adjust the dish to harmonise with the wine which often requires the skills of a chef to make it work. The composition has to be delicious without overpowering or shadowing the attributes of the fermented grape juice. Cocktails on the other hand work the other way: the tipple has to meld with the food – this seems relatively simplified.

鸡尾酒是一种扣人心弦的、娱乐逗趣的舞会饮料以及餐前开胃酒。可是，直到最近为止， 没有人真正想过，不同的鸡尾酒配搭不同的菜肴，也和葡萄酒与佳肴的搭配一样，是高明之举。事实上，对我来说，处理鸡尾酒与美食的搭配并不如处理葡萄酒酒与佳肴的搭配来得复杂。由于葡萄酒的味道和香气档案是固定的，棘手的是调整菜肴以致和美酒协调，这经常是要靠厨师的技巧来完成的。 菜肴的组合必须美味但不能压抑或夺去发酵葡萄酒的属性。而鸡尾酒的运作则是相反的：烈酒必须与食物融合 -- 这似乎相对的简单。

With cocktails it all boils down to the proportions and the ingredients which are endless possibilities. From fruit juices, purees, herbs, spices, teas, fruit alcohols to spirits, you name it, each combination reaps different results and taste profiles. Some like it with more buzz, others sweeter, a little savoury or a spicy kick here and there. This makes the mixologist work like a mad scientist, adjusting and readjusting the composition to balance the flavours in the mouth. Jeffrey Koh assistant bar manager of KU DÉ TA Singapore shares more.

对鸡尾酒来说，一切归结于无限可能性的（食材）比率与成分。从果汁、果泥、草药、香料、茶叶、水果酒到烈酒，任君选择，每一种组合都会带来不一样的效果和口感风味。有些人喜欢亢奋一些、有些喜欢稍带甜，有些则喜欢零星的那么一点咸味、一点辛辣的刺激。于是，鸡尾酒调酒师就像一个疯狂的科学家，一再调适它的组合，以平衡它的口感，且听新加坡 KU DÉ TA 餐厅之酒吧经理助理 Jeffrey Koh 先生娓娓道来。

As a mixologist, how do you pair food with cocktails? 

Understanding the ingredients, taste and nature of the food is a good way to start. If the food has a higher level of flavour, like Asian cuisines, you may choose a citrusy cocktail to complement the spices with its tartness. Another way is to use an ingredient which goes well with both and acts as a modifier that bonds the food with the alcohol (in this case gin). This way neither the food loses its distinct taste nor will gin be too dominant in the pairing.

身为一位鸡尾酒调酒师，您怎么搭配美食和鸡尾酒呢？

了解食物的成分、味道和它的本质是一个入门良方。如果食物的口味度偏高的话 — 譬如亚洲食物 — 你可以选择一款柑橘鸡尾酒，以它的尖酸去互补食物的香料味。另一方法是采用与两者都能协调的食材充当改性剂来结合食物与酒精（这里说的是琴酒）。

For example we did this pairing involving foie gras and Bombay Honey cocktail, which we used wild honey, fresh apple juice and Bombay Sapphire East Gin. The subtle botanical notes were put forth by the honey-apple mix at the nose. The sweetness of the honey complements the richness of the foie gras well. The hint of the botanicals enhances the experience.

譬如說，我们在搭配鹅肝和孟买蜂蜜鸡尾酒时，就用了野生蜂蜜、新鲜苹果汁以及孟买东蓝宝石琴酒。那细微的植物气味在蜂蜜与苹果的组合中被释放了，从鼻尖蔓延开来。 蜂蜜的甜美与鹅肝的丰腴，相得益彰，淡淡的草本味增强了味蕾的体验。

The starter of bluefin tuna sashimi, California roll and Mizuna salad pair beautifully with Eastern Rejuvenation, a light cocktail made of Bombay Sapphire East Gin, cucumber and grapefruit juice. As the cocktail is crisp and refreshing, it matches the light flavours and at the same time prepares the palate for more intense dishes and cocktails to come.

餐前的开胃菜蓝鳍金枪鱼生鱼片、加州卷以及京水菜（Mizuna）沙拉与一款以买孟东蓝宝石琴酒、黄瓜和柚子调制的清淡鸡尾酒“东方回春”（Eastern Rejuvenation）是绝美的配搭。因为那鸡尾酒的爽口清新，恰好搭配拉沙的清淡口感；与此同时，也让味蕾准备就绪，以迎接即将上桌的、更强烈的菜肴和鸡尾酒。

There is no hard and fast rule to which type of cocktail should be paired with certain food. It is more about finding a balanced combination. Food pairing is to create a mouth filled of balanced flavours that do not compromise but complement the distinctive flavours of the dishes. 

至于那种类型的鸡尾酒应该搭配某种类型的食物，并没有金科玉律可循，主要的是要寻找一个平衡的组合。美食的搭配是要创建一种不夺取、但却能互补菜肴独特风味的、洋溢满腔的平衡口感。

What kind of ingredients go well with gin to make cocktails?

Spring and summer ingredients go well with gin in many cocktail creations. Gin based cocktails are mostly profiled （as）having botanical, spice and/or citrus elements. Through careful tweaking and varying in complexity, body and intensity to the core flavours that compliments the dominant taste of any dishes. (sorry, I do not understand this sentence.)

要调制鸡尾酒，什么样的食材与琴酒才是协调的搭配呢？

在很多鸡尾酒的创制中，春天与夏天的食材和琴酒是很好的配搭。以琴酒为基础的鸡尾酒大多带着植物、香料暨或柑橘成分的色彩，经过小心的调整和變換，与美食的配搭不但不会相斥，反而能够突出各自的特点。

Are cocktail and food pairing menus getting more popular? Why?

Yes, cocktail and food pairing is growing in popularity as the local cocktail scene has been maturing in recent years. Globally, cocktails have taken centre stage in many restaurants and drinking joints. Cocktail and food pairing is becoming another dining trend adding variety and dimension to it. When one dines with companions, many are looking for new experiences with food. By injecting cocktail-food pairing and wine-food pairing makes good value sense as well. Consumers will get a recommended “package” rather than having to make a decision that might not complement the food at all.

鸡尾酒与美食的菜单搭配是否越来越受欢迎了呢？为什么？

是的，随着近年来本地日趋成熟的市场景象，鸡尾酒和美食的搭配是越来越受欢迎了。在全球方面，鸡尾酒是很多餐馆和饮酒场所的瞩目焦点。鸡尾酒和美食的配搭将成为另一种用餐趋势，为之增添变化与特色。与有伴一起用餐时，很多人都会寻求一种与食物的新体验。引进鸡尾酒与美食暨佳酿与美食的配搭，也是物有所值的明智之举。 顾客将会获取一个推荐的“配套”， 而不是被迫做出一个可能完全无法与食物互补的抉择。

About the mixologist 

Jeffrey Koh has worked as a bartender at various watering holes such as Ice Cold Beer, Que Pasa, Coastes, Tab, just to name a few. In 2007, he participated in The Elite Bartenders Course JWC-ASIA and was awarded the Eagle award, an award for students who have strong practical sense and business acumen. He is one of three Singaporeans in the history of the course conducted by the International Bartenders Association to win the prestigious award. Showing a dedicated enduring love for his job, Jeffrey said, “This industry is a living classroom where I can get personal insights to（into？） diverse culture and ways of life through the different engagement. It is akin to the wide array of products that I get to work with. The combination is endless and fascinating.”

关于鸡尾酒调酒师

Jeffrey Koh 先生曾在不同的酒吧如 Ice Cold Beer、Que Pasa,、Coastes、Tab – 仅举几例 -- 担任酒保。2007年，他参加了J WC-ASIA 精英调酒师课程，并荣获金鹰奖。那是一个为有强烈实践意识和生意头脑的学生而设的奖项，Jeffrey Koh先生是在国际调酒师协会主办的该课程中有史以来获此殊荣的三位新加坡得奖者其中之一。他对工作的热爱专心致志，持续不朽。Jeffrey 说：“这行业犹如一个生活教室，让我通过不同的参与，从而洞悉不一样的文化以及生活方式 。它类似于我得以处理的各种产品：范围是广泛的、组合是无止境的、迷人的。

Jeffrey enjoys both wines and cocktails. For the first (former?） he mentioned Pinot Noir, Tempranillo and Chablis as some of the styles of wine he loves. For cocktails, he studies the audience’s palates and experiments with the different profiles of liquor available to create concoctions that will enhance the experiences of these occasions. Favourite cocktails of his are the Negorni which has equal parts of a good structured gin, campari and red vermouth, and the Mojito which uses aged rum, fresh mint and fresh lime for a perfect concoction on a great sunny day.

Jeffrey 喜欢葡萄酒，也喜欢鸡尾酒。关于前者，他提到 Pinot Noir, Tempranillo 红葡萄酒和 Chablis 白葡萄酒，是一些他喜爱的葡萄酒风格。至于鸡尾酒，他则会研究观众的口味，以不同档案的合宜酒精饮料来做实验，试图创制出增强这些尝试过程体验的鸡尾酒调合。他的鸡尾酒最爱是一款 Negorni ，以同等分量的 良好结构琴酒（gin）、坎巴利开胃酒 （campari） 以及红苦艾酒 （red vermouth）搀合而成。另一款是用陈年朗姆酒、新鲜薄荷以及酸橙调制的Mojito，那是他阳光灿烂的日子里一款完美的鸡尾酒。

His recent experimentation – a popular one with patrons – with the tipple resulted in Orange Climax, a delicious cocktail made from Marker’s Mark Bourbon （Maker's …） , mango juice with rose extract and syrup, and garnish with strips of dried mango peel. He has this to say to Wine Living readers, “Do explore different cocktails as you would do with wines. You may discover more combinations of flavours that will tickle your palate.”

他最近广做了一个实验，广受饕客欢迎。那致醉的饮料引发了“橙色高潮”（Orange Climax）~  一款以 Maker’s Mark 波本威士忌、芒果汁、玫瑰萃取物以及糖浆调制的美味鸡尾酒，并有条状的芒果干皮作为点缀。 他对 “Wine Living” 的读者如是说：“探索不同的鸡尾酒，一如探索葡萄酒那样，你可能会发现刺激味蕾的更多口味组合。

《JIU酒品wineliving》雜誌 Issue 2，p34-37